Firehose

#Scenic, #Beautiful Views

#Mother Nature, #Beautiful Planet

I’ve recently made the Style Arc coat for the Minerva Craft’s website. Here’s a sneak peek of the finished jacket:

I made it to cover both bump and baby in his sling once he arrived. You can view the full post here:

https://www.minervacrafts.com/blog/projects/maternity-style-arc-estelle-wool-coat

Welcome back to Papercut Palooza, my attempt to catch up on all my Papercut projects that haven't yet made their way to the blog. Today, it's the Pneuma Tank!


The Pneuma is pretty unique and easily recognizable in the sewing world. This tank top has a built-in bra, a drapey overlay with open sides, and has elastic straps in a cool crisscross back. I've made two of these and cannot wait for the hot summer weather to be here for these!


I know I'm not the only one with super thin, lightweight knits in my stash. I always fall in love with them, and then never know what to make that can be so see-through. Until now! The Pneuma is absolutely perfect, because the bra is a feature of the tank and is meant to be seen. Doing tree pose on a tree (please tell me you've watched Free Solo and get that reference...), hiking through the woods, or just getting ice... [read more]

#Scenaries, #Beautiful
When I said I didn't think I could resist this fabric I was obviously weak-willed and entirely right. It's a silk/cotton mix from Fabric Godmother in the very same snakeskin print as the cotton drill I used for my recent Julien Jacket. The opportunity to sew it up into something lovely arose when I was asked if I'd like to preview the patterns from Fibre Mood's latest Pattern Book (number 4, which is available now)! Having had success with their Carmella Jumpsuit and Tara Jumper, I was very much taken by and happy to try the new Wally's wrap blouse.

Wallys wrap blouse - worn not quite as intended
The Wallys is a long and fairly voluminous sleeved wrap around blouse that ties at the smallest point of the waist. I've been wearing my Sayan Blouse quite often, so I thought this would make for a similar, but slightly more relaxed and collarless alternative.... [read more]

Paula Fonseca, April 22, 2019

The author stands front on to the camera, hands in the pockets of a fitted black wool coat. A red knee-length skirt pokes out beneath the hem and tall boots complete the outfit.
My Finished Simplicity 1197

About two years ago, I bought the most beautiful wool blend to make a winter coat. The fabric was gorgeous — a blend of black and gray with threads of silver woven into it, making the fabric sparkle whenever the light hit it. I also purchased a deliciously buttery peachskin in black to be used as lining. But every time I thought about sewing the coat, I was filled with self-doubt. I felt like I did not have the skills necessary for such a difficult project. I kept on waiting until I was 100% sure that I could sew that coat, that I was not going to waste such precious fabrics because I was not there yet. And the fabric lived in one of my fabric storage containers for two whole years before I found the courage to start sewing that coat.

The coat fabric and the pattenr envelope sit on a cutting mat, waiting to be braved.
Pattern and Fabric Selection

I had to realize that I was probably... [read more]

The slave that stands behind Anna Wintour waiting to wipe her lips after she has her morning virgins blood smoothie wears this:

Mick Jagger was last seen wearing this-

How can you be upset? This isn’t too bad!If she didn’t have that serious thigh gap, her inner thigh sequins would pelt the front rows.I’m liking this- in a Duchess if Windsor’s parlour wallpaper kind of way….If you brush the skirt upward you get a portrait of Cecil Beaton riding a hobbyhorse!Hold on- can an entire model be sucked into a roomba? Somebody grab her tail!This is fun- like dancehall floozie fun- Can I be buried in this? I was planning to be cremated, but this looks like it won’t burn. Looks like Adam Ants daughter Peony found the ‘special trunk’…..Ok, ok- no more skirt rubbing- don’t get angry! photo credits: Vogue.com

Designer Stitch is developing a set of Let’s Sew Together patterns that are designed to be sewn with a novice or friend that you can help along the way and share the love of sewing with. The concept of having a line of patterns that are beginner friendly and bring people together is so lovely … Continue reading Lily Wrap Skirt- Let’s Sew Together
I loves a wrap dress. I'm not sure why? Actually I am. I like skirts and tops and dresses that wrap because you can loosen them off if they get too tight. i.e If you've eaten an entire pizza.  In fact I went to a wedding yesterday and in a tactical move I wore a wrap circle skirt, which I loosened after the trio of desserts came out!!!!  This pattern is Kwik Sew k3489 and I got


I didn't really take part in Me Made May last year; I seem to join in sporadically. I think I will join in this year though, for the 10th annual challenge, with a different kind of pledge than in previous years.

I have tons of memade at this point; I can easily wear a different memade garment every day. That's not a challenge any more. What is a challenge is thinking about my memade wardrobe in the light of sustainability. How much do I need? And is my making done thoughtfully? These questions are more of the kind of challenge I'm thinking about lately.

So my focus this year is to figure out whether I'm wearing and enjoying my already existing wardrobe of memades, what garments/fabrics in my stash are keepers and which to pass on, and to make some decisions about the kinds of fabrics I'll buy in future -- thinking about what things my wardrobe needs and how I... [read more]
So, after taking a bit of a break from pattern testing I dove back in recently and I'm happy to report that during my hiatus nothing has changed with Itch to Stitch* designing and pattern drafting.  It's still the same amazing quality as always, with the same careful attention paid to every detail!  I'm always so impressed every time I sew an Itch to Stitch pattern.

This time around I tested the Isidro top, which is releasing today, and I'm telling you that this is a top you will definitely want need in your wardrobe all summer long and can tell you one of the testers, who lives in the Southern hemisphere, and I were just chatting in our Facebook group about how Isidro layered with a cozy Aveiro cardi would be perfect for getting you through the colder months as well!


Itch to Stitch Isidro


Let's get down to all the important details!  Isidro is a simple little knit top that features gentle... [read more]

#Planet Earth, #Scenaries




I erase or heavily edit most of them on my computer so you don't have to see them.
But if you have some you would like to share with others, 
Anne M Bray is having a linky party of the collective missteps.


Head on over and play!

The only mirror anywhere near work is at the post office...

aka Dogging

aka Doin’ it Doggy Style

…but I thought that I might suffer from inept googling lol

Pedigrees Royal ‘Scribble’ pattern, from Lisa Pay.  Fabric, nose, eyes and other fixings from Mohair Bear Making Supplies.  Cost just under twenty squid BUT there’s enough fur for at least one more if I want to use it.

Anyhew.

Scribble/Toto/Isaiah is done, after many hours of careful hand sewing, VERY careful machine stitching, turning, packing in stuffing REALLY tightly, poking holes, etc etc etc.  My hands are KILLING ME.

Looks like some horrible slasher movie still…

This is a very good pattern, perfect drafting, and PRETTY good instructions.  A fair amount of skill is assumed in being able to interpret instructions with minimal diagrams.   The designer casually says ‘ there are plenty of videos on Youtube if you’re inexperienced’.  I found her own videos on... [read more]

A good long while ago, Hanne and Astrid hosted a sale where they sold some of their old stock of materials, costumes and clothes. One of the items was a vintage maxi dress, all black floral chiffon and viscose that looked pretty awesome, but also a bit small. Hanne convinced me to try it on anyway, and it magically fit like it was made for me! I took it home and there it waited for warmer days. I then wore it once, washed it on a cold delicate cycle and discovered the chiffon layer had shrunk in super weird ways, making the dress unwearable.

Damn.

I sulked for a while and then unpicked the entire thing to make a pattern out of the lining. After a quick muslin to check the fit I cut into some precious viscose from my stash and made this regeneration happen:


It's not a super complicated dress, but it has some interesting details! Which are very hard to spot in this dark and... [read more]

Hi Sewcialists!

No videos this week, but lots of tips for fitting. Now that you’ve seen a fitting in action, you may be wondering what you need to successfully fit garments on your own. Here are some items, skills, people, and questions I recommend for a productive fit session.

The number one fit tool you’ll need, and the most important, is an open mind. It’s crucial to be able to look at yourself, your make, the shape of the garment, and whether or not you actually like it, in an objective fashion. Of course, all your styling decisions will be subjective, but in order to make the best fit choices you’ll want to separate from your emotional side for a bit and let yourself truly evaluate your make on your body. Don’t worry if you don’t know how to fix something — there’s always google 🙂

For example, if you’re really attached to that... [read more]

It’s my 8th year taking part in Me-Made May, and I’m still so excited every time it rolls around!

I like to have some structure in my MMMay pledge, so here’s what I’ve decided on this year:

May always starts off cold in Canada, but it’s summer weather by the end, so I’m starting with pants and ending with maxis!

Real Life Truth Talk:

  • Realistically I wear pyjamas most of the time on weekends, so I’ll promise at least 5 outfits a week and aim for 6, but probably never 7!
  • For pants week, my goal is to actually get back to sewing pants, and thing about what styles I like to wear beyond RTW skinny jeans all winter long
  • In Dress and Maxi weeks, I want to wear my favourite things and feel like a badass every day
  • Jumpsuit Week is a wildcard – how many jumpsuits does a girl need? I already have 4. But what about a romper? Or a faux-jumpsuit? There’s only one way... [read more]

Earth Day is a perfect time to talk about fabric thrifting and reuse. One of my favorite sources of fabric is houseware items like tablecloths and curtains, although I’ve used sheets, blankets and bedspreads too. They are often just big rectangles with plenty of useable fabric and few seams. 

The fabric for my first Harrison shirt started life as a robe.

There are a few things to consider when reusing an item for garment sewing. First of all, I consider fabric content. Can you guess what it is? Is there still a label? Is this fabric washable? Burning a small piece of your fabric can help determine content.  This burn test guide from Threads can teach you how different materials react to burning.

Most of my reuse fabrics have been cotton or mostly cotton. I always prewash to check for shrinkage and color fastness. While a tablecloth may have been washed... [read more]

Charm Patterns Night and Day Dress

For the first Dressmakers’ Ball, organised by the team at Crafty Sew & So in Leicester, back in 2017, I left making my dress until the very last minute and ended up sewing a knit dress the night before the ball.

Charm Patterns Night and Day Dress

This year I was determined to be organised, and finished my dress with so much time to spare that I ended up making a matching belt, pill box hat, and bag (which collectively won me an award on the night for best accessory!).

Charm Patterns Night and Day Dress

The dress is Charm Patterns Night and Day Dress. I have the PDF version of the pattern (a gift from my parents for Christmas) and sent it for A0 printing as the pattern has many variations (including some very full skirts) so is enormous. I printed all of the pages as I’m keen to try some other variations in the near future. The version of the dress I made for the ball was actually decided by my fabric... [read more]

#Stunning Scenaries, #Incredible

So the Craftsy/McCalls trousers were a dud. The problem was the fabric, it bagged out terribly the minute I put it on. And it was super hot. Not what I need in the overheated work environments I am in. Therefore I needed another pair of trousers. I always need more trousers.

Vogue 2948 came out of the pattern stash. I bought it a few years ago from Craftsy. It was included in the “Pants Fitting Technique” by Sandra Betzina. I like the yoked waistband. They seem to suit me (and my tummy) better. I settled on View A with the side zip but left out the tiny pockets.

After my hassles with the McCalls pattern I measured REALLY carefully. Both me and the pattern. I decided to use a straight size 16.  My reasoning was that this was a pattern for non-stretch wovens and I’m using bengaline. Plus, I’m currently in between a 16 and an 18.

I forgot about... [read more]

"Hey, can you do me a favor?"
Famous last words.
My sister's pal needed new pants for work and not finding them to fit her.

(and don't we all? I wish I could link you to the monologue Merrill Markoe did on the endless hunt for the next pair of black pants, but think about it for a minute and you know what I'm talking about). 

I was volunteered. And I am doing my duty, Sister.

I didn't take enough photos. I put this job off and then I just did it.
Two pair of pants, doubleknit, both black, hard to see the seams, tracing off onto thumbprint tracing paper.

This is the only process photo I have, and I am pretty happy I have this. I could not see the seams very well, and I didn't have enough organza to trace them onto, or the will to purchase more organza for this job.

My workaround was to put pins in the points of the seams of the part I was tracing, at the... [read more]

#EarthPorn, #Incredible Views
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